If you’re ever in New York, a visit to the Japan Society is to be highly recommended. Located in midtown Manhattan, across from the iconic headquarters of the United Nations, it’s an oasis of Japanese culture and a hidden gem of a museum. The society hosts many activities including film, lectures, tea ceremonies and even morning meditations, but at the heart is its gallery, which houses outstanding exhibitions of Japanese culture throughout the year. This spring there’s an eye-popping selection of Zen scroll paintings and calligraphy from the 17th to the 20th century.   

The exhibition takes its name from the famous exchange between Bodhidharma, the legendary founder of Zen Buddhism, and the 5th century Chinese Emperor Wu Liang. When asked by the Emperor what merit he had gained from all his good works in support of Buddhism, Bodhidharma is said to have replied, “None whatsoever”.  This shocking, paradoxical response is both the title and pointer for the greatest collection of Zen paintings one is likely to see in one place anywhere in the world, including the Far East.  

Hakuin Ekaku (1685-1768) is the most famous monk of the Edo period, best known for having revitalized the Rinzai Zen school and widening its appeal in Japan. However, he was also a towering figure in the bold-brush ink painting and calligraphy known as Zenga. This exhibit goes back and forth in time, tracing his immediate predecessors as well as the lasting impact he had on major Japanese artists over the next three centuries. The core of the exhibition is Hakuin’s own scroll paintings, which range from playful to profound; from comical to awe inspiring. The lively spontaneity of his many varied works is striking, but for those involved in Zen training they also provide a powerful example of spiritual insight. 

Hakuin Ekaku (1686-1768) Hanging scroll. Giant Daruma.  

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Michael Haggiag

“Direct pointing to the human heart; see your nature and become buddha!” 

Hakuin Ekaku (1685 -1768) Hanging scroll Hokei juggling. 

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Michael Haggiag

“Don’t let it drop!”  Hakuin liked to depict Buddhist deities in skilful performances, making them more accessible to laymen than abstract portraits.  

Hakuin Ekaku  (1685 -1768) Hanging scroll.

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Michael Haggiag

“His shoes were split apart” 

According to legend a 6th century Chinese official encountered Bodhidharma in the Pamir Mountains carrying a single shoe. He reported this to Emperor Wu who opened Bodhidharma’s tomb only to discover that his body and one shoe were mysteriously missing. 

Hakuin Ekaku (1685 -1768) Hanging scroll.

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Michael Haggiag

“In both spiritual training and dealing with the world, keep in mind the example of blind men crossing a log bridge.”

Hakuin believed we must all proceed cautiously through life because we’re blind before enlightenment. 

Hakuin Ekaku (1685 -1768) Hanging scroll.

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Michael Haggiag

“An ant circling the hand mill – a hunt for the world.”

Because of its restricted view the ant expends great effort but doesn’t move forward, walking endlessly around the stone mill. 

Hakuin Ekaku (1685 -1768) Hanging scroll.

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Michael Haggiag

When the famous warrior Kumagai Jirio (1141-1208) became a monk, he always rode backwards. He composed a verse saying that even devils would cry out if he turned round.

Yamaoka Tesshu (1836 -1888). Iroha on folding screens.

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Michael Haggiag

“For whom will the glory of this world remain unchanged?”

Iroha is a pangrammatic poem using every syllable of the Japanese alphabet once.